Fashion is often seen as the ultimate form of human expression - how we present ourselves to the world. It requires vision, creativity, and a high level of skill. Yet, the debate of whether fashion qualifies as an art has been running for decades. In this playlist, we will look at this question from the designer’s perspective, exploring whether or not some of the world’s most famous fashion designers chose to classify themselves under the moniker of “artist”.
Christian Dior: The Man Behind the Myth
Today, it's difficult to find someone who does not know the name Dior. Coveted from the catwalk to the red carpet, Dior’s signature ultra-feminine silhouettes and garden-inspired opulence have made the fashion house iconic. But fashion was not always the dream of its eponymous designer. The son of a businessman, Christian Dior defied his family’s diplomatic aspirations and instead sold his sketches on the streets of Paris—for the love of art.
Years later, when those sketches parlayed into his own fashion house, Dior struggled to reconcile his quiet, artistic self with the public persona of the man behind the “New Look”. In this video, we hear Dior’s reflections on the split between artist and brand in his own words.
Vivienne Westwood
Fashion’s punk queen, Vivienne Westwood, never failed to do things her way. From her first store with Malcolm McLaren to her Mayfair boutique, Westwood pioneered the concept of the boutique as a gallery. She was more concerned with making an impact than selling units. Westwood wanted her collections to mean something. She wanted people to look at her clothes and understand what an expertly cut coat in Harris Tweed was saying about the world—If that isn’t art, what is?
But, parodying the British upper classes doesn’t do much for the bottom line and Britain’s most iconic fabrics don’t come cheap. This documentary looks at Westwood during the pivotal years of the late 1980’s to early 1990’s when a decision must be made: Art or business?
Stephen Jones
Milliner Stephen Jones’ creations are the crowning jewel of any outfit. Originally debuting his off-beat hats in the afterhours London club scene, his designs now grace the heads of celebrities and the halls of major museums. Jones’ designs are structural and complex, balancing high over the head and cantilevering off it. The hat interacts with its wearer, playing with the fantastic and making it tangible.
Recognized as much for his collaborations with couture designers as for his illustrious clientele, Jones sees collaboration as a necessity in the world of fashion. In this interview, he discusses the relationship between designer and public, noting how commercial viability influences artistic choices.
Kenzō Takada
Takada’s life was one of many firsts: One of the first male students to enrol in the prestigious Bunka Gakuen College in Tokyo in 1958, the first Japanese designer to show in Paris in 1970, and a foundational pioneer of the “concept store”. Armed with a shoestring budget, he knew he couldn't compete directly with the grand fashion houses of Paris. Instead, he dared to be different. Opening in 1970, Takada’s Jungle Jap was a revolutionary, immersive space that combined a simple fashion boutique with art-of-living experiences.
Years after his retirement from fashion, Takada officially broke into the world of interior design. In this interview, he explains feeling somewhere between an artist and a designer, but that both are as much a part of his identity as being a Japanese creator in Paris. That drive to be different and wholly himself made him an icon.
Arkadius
From his Saint Martin’s College graduation show, Arkadius was hailed as the savior of avant-garde fashion. Imaginative, visionary, and provocative, the Polish designer became a rising star from the moment his first design hit the runway. But the temperamental world of fashion played us all for fools. Within a decade, Arkadius’ empire collapsed and he retreated to a quiet life in South America—only to re-emerge years later with a prêt-à-porter collection unlike any other: one to be viewed and purchased as individual works of art.
Before leaving the fashion world, Arkadius spoke candidly about the question “Is fashion art?” In this interview, he reflects on the difference between art and design; between creating for survival and with soul.
Image Credits on Learning Resources Page: KAMMERMAN / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
